17 October 2026

Mozart's Cafe

 Linking up with Marg at The Intrepid Reader

16 October 2026 - Toronto - Vienna - Budapest

VIENNA AUSTRIA


Saturday 
Thanksgiving dinner at my cousin's with her daughter and wife and Joey and Freddie.
We had a great time catching up!


Sunday  
We mainly spent the day packing and such for our trip. We checked in with Air France.
In the evening Air France started sending e-mails delaying and delaying our flight.

Monday Oct 12 Toronto - Paris Copenhagen
We awoke to AF cancelling our flight! They had rebooked us on SAS to Copenhagen late afternoon. After some struggles I was able to get that checked in and confirmed. Talk about stress!!!
We finished packing up and getting the house stuff taken care of.


A lazy day of food and naps.


A fabulous day learning the subway and a lovely time discovering the heart of Vienna. Eating along the way.


Some random thoughts to get down before we leave Vienna.

SAS, a nice airline for us, was great.
Although I had a daily plan, set in jello, we used it very loosely! 
The women are elegant, even in jeans and sneakers, their coats and accessories are lovely!
You can fill up your water bottle anywhere, on the street, in bars, hotels.
You can automatically borrow an umbrella or buy a bottle of wine in the hotel lobby with a card.
Everybody smokes which is pain if you want to dine outdoors.
Hotel charging devices are slow!
The subway is great.
I love hearing John say how much he loves just wandering in the city.
Technology is further advanced than at home.
The only cash we used was for the taxi from the airport.


High-Speed ÖBB Railjet Train
Hilton Garden Inn Budapest City Centre


Friday October 16 Vienna - Budapest

Itinerary
Oct 12 -13 Toronto - Paris - Vienna
Oct 13 - Vienna
Oct 14 - Vienna
Oct 15 - Vienna
Oct 16 - Vienna to Budapest by train
Oct 17 - Budapest
Oct 18 - Budapest to Zagreb Croatia

Fri, Oct 16 | Vienna ➔ Budapest (Arrival & Jewish Quarter Nightlife)

We were in Budapest in 2012  for another river cruise so we are skipping the touristy things we did on that trip.

The day began with a final breakfast in Vienna before packing our bags and checking out of our railway base. By 01:00 PM, we completed the effortless short walk from our hotel lobby straight onto the platforms of Vienna Central Station (Wien Hauptbahnhof).

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We boarded our pre-booked high-speed ÖBB Railjet train, slipping into our First-Class carriage seats just as the doors slid shut. Definitely not first class!! Not even a water service! 

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We had the carriage to ourselves at first, other than the HUGE suitcases from the berth in front of us, with Dubai tags, he huffed and puffed putting them up there as the conductor insisted.

One stop and a guy got on. another stop and two women. Then the next stop, where Dubai guy tried to con a guy, with an assigned seat, from sitting, but he was having none of that. Another woman joined us. The heat was unbearable, it was hot!


By 03:45 PM, our train glided beneath the massive, historic iron-and-glass roof of Budapest-Keleti station. Stepping onto the platform, we grabbed a cab, no credit cards but he would take euros ($25) to hotel. Within minutes, our driver navigated the inner-city traffic to drop us off at our home base for the next two nights: the Hilton Garden Inn Budapest City Centre.

Check in was amazing, with Ruth.

In an effort to reduce plastic the Hilton has a water dispenser on each floor (water bottle in room), with still and sparkling water.


After dropping our luggage and checking into our room at 04:30 PM, we blinked and immediately headed out to catch the autumn golden hour light. 

Stepping out of our hotel and turning left, we can see St.Stephen's! Brought us into the grand neoclassical plaza surrounding St. Stephen's Basilica, where locals and travellers alike were spilling across the lively cobblestone square. We finally grabbed lunch.






The restaurant vibe near St. Stephen’s Basilica was an unforgettable mix of historic grandeur and lively European charm. 
As the late afternoon sun began to dip, it washed the massive 96-meter neoclassical dome of St. Stephen’s Basilica in a warm, golden glow. The outdoor terraces were alive with a vibrant energy.






We happened upon the Fat Policeman, on our agenda for tomorrow!

The lights were just coming on! Looking towards Buda.

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The Four Seasons Hotel.




Continuing our walk 15 minutes northwest toward the banks of the Danube River, we arrived at the water's edge to witness one of Europe’s most moving monuments: The Shoes on the Danube Bank.

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e stood in quiet reflection before the 60 pairs of rusted, period-correct iron shoes sculpted directly into the concrete bank. The memorial honors the thousands of Hungarian Jews who were ordered to strip down on the river's edge before being tragically shot into the freezing river by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen during the winter of 1944–1945. Looking down at the iron laces and tiny children’s boots while the sun set directly behind the silhouette of Buda Castle across the river was a moment we won't soon forget.


We stood in quiet reflection before the 60 pairs of rusted, period-correct iron shoes sculpted directly into the concrete bank. The memorial honors the thousands of Hungarian Jews who were ordered to strip down on the river's edge before being tragically shot into the freezing river by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen during the winter of 1944–1945. Looking down at the iron laces and tiny children’s boots while the sun set directly behind the silhouette of Buda Castle across the river was a moment we won't soon forget.

The Hungarian Parliament Building (Országház) is the majestic seat of the National Assembly of Hungary, standing proudly as the country's largest building and a world-famous architectural icon. Resting directly on the Pest banks of the Danube River, this breathtaking landmark is widely considered one of the top tourist destinations in Europe and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.



The Hungarian Parliament Building stood as a breathtaking titan on the Pest banks of the Danube River, its massive Neo-Gothic silhouette instantly stealing the spotlight of the Budapest skyline. Modeled loosely after London’s Westminster but infused with grand Baroque symmetry and a Renaissance dome, the sheer scale of the palace felt almost mythic. Walking up to the façade, it was impossible not to stare at the dizzying forest of 88 turrets and 242 stone statues of historic rulers staring back down at the square. Inside, the opulence only magnified, boasting nearly 700 rooms laced with a staggering 40 kilograms of 23-carat gold leaf and a grand central dome rising exactly 96 meters high to honor the nation's 9th-century roots. Stepping into the Dome Hall, where guards stood in silent vigil over the ancient Holy Crown of Hungary, the weight of centuries of history felt completely tangible—making it far more than just a seat of government, but a golden monument to the soul of the country itself.

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On our way back.



Fat Policeman behind me.


Dessert - apple crepes with cream.



Oct 15 - Vienna

 Itinerary

 

Our day in Vienna was absolutely perfect, filled with brilliant sunshine, delicious pastries, and some of the city's best hidden street art.


We started our morning at the Central Station (Hauptbahnhof) and jumped right onto the subway where we took the U-Bahn, old pros as we now are!




We dropped into Castelletto, where we immediately tracked down some much-needed breakfast. We treated ourselves to perfectly frothed cappuccinos paired with warm, marmalade-filled croissants. While we went with the classic marmalade, the café also had chocolate and pistachio options that looked just as incredible.

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After fueling up, we crossed over the Danube to explore the banks. 











The water levels were notably low, exposing parts of the riverbed that are usually hidden. We climbed down to the lower paths to view the incredible graffiti lining the waterfront.

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From the waterfront, we climbed back up over the canal and made our way into the historic Fleischmarkt. Dating back to at least 1220, this is one of Vienna's oldest streets. It gets its name ("Meat Market") from the medieval butchers and meat-hackers who based their guild house here centuries ago. By the 1700s, Greek and Levantine merchants settled heavily into the area, transforming it into the vibrant, atmospheric Griechenviertel (Greek Quarter) we see today.

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Tucked into this neighborhood, we visited the stunning Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church. Its gorgeous, brick Neo-Byzantine facade was incredible to see from the narrow street. The interior was a breathtaking, intimate world of gold, shadow, and silence—though we couldn't capture it since photos are strictly not allowed.



Right next door, we found the famous Griechenbeisl, Vienna's oldest tavern, which has been serving patrons since 1447. Walking by its ivy-draped exterior, it was wild to think we were standing outside a historic legendary spot where icons like Mozart, Beethoven, Mark Twain, and Johnny Cash once dined and signed the walls.







From there, we meandered back through the winding cobblestone alleyways toward Petersplatz.

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St. Stephan's.











The Plague Column.

In 1679, a devastating outbreak of the bubonic plague swept through Vienna, claiming the lives of an estimated 75,000 to 100,000 residents. As the disease spread, Habsburg Emperor Leopold I fled the capital to escape infection. Before leaving, he vowed to erect a grand monument dedicated to the Holy Trinity once the pestilence finally subsided.


 We found an outdoor table directly in front of the magnificent St. Peter's Church (Peterskirche), ordered a cold beer, and took a moment to just take it all in. Sitting there in the bright sunshine, watching the traditional Fiaker (horse-drawn carriages) clatter by on the pavement with that stunning Baroque green dome framing the background, we felt the incredible energy of the city—and we knew we were just getting warmed up for what else the afternoon had in store...






Heat lamps controlled by the server's phone!



Once we finished our drinks, we strolled back down the elegant Graben, passing its historic monuments and luxury storefronts. We ducked into the famous Kaufhaus STEFFL department store for a quick, much-needed bathroom break. Refreshed and ready for the next adventure, we walked out and kept heading south, making our way toward the bustling, vibrant open-air stalls of the Naschmarkt..






John took this from Stiffl while we took a bio break.





HIIICH Teddy Café is Vienna's first teddy bear-themed coffee shop, located in the heart of the city.



Back to our coffee spot yesterday after our maiden subway ride.



Since we had already spent the previous day thoroughly exploring the market's endless rows of spices and delicacies, we kept it brief this time. We snapped a few more colorful photos of the lively stalls before tracking down a spot to grab a late lunch. To refuel after all our walking, I started with a rich, seasoned beef tartare, while John went for a classic local favorite: a plate of two Viennese wieners.











Wandering.













We sampled his cheese and then his wine!






Catching elevator down to subway.





We stopped into the huge Interspar in the train station for chocolate and tomorrow's breakfast.


Mozart's Cafe

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