Thursday Oct 22 Belgrade

 Itinerary

Mon Oct 12 -13 Toronto - Paris - Vienna

Oct 13 - Vienna

Oct 14 - Vienna

Oct 15 - Vienna

Oct 16 - Vienna to Budapest by train

Oct 17 - Budapest

Oct 18 - Budapest to Zagreb Croatia

Oct 19 - Zagreb

Oct 20 - Zagreb - Belgrade Serbia

Oct 21 - Belgrade

Oct 22 - Belgrade

Oct 23 - Belgrade - Bucharest Romania

Thursday, Oct 22 

Steps 13,000 Dull and damp

We left Hotel Centar No. 1 on Republic Square, stepping out into a damp, drizzly Belgrade morning. The gray chill only made our short walk down the street feel like a proper quest for comfort, and stepping into Hotel Balkan Beograd the warm, cozy atmosphere was the perfect refuge from the rain. We ordered a somewhat unexpected twist on a classic: a savory French toast that came topped with rich Serbian ham, cheese, and a sweet-tart tomato jam. 

The Hotel Balkan is one of the oldest operating hospitality landmarks in Belgrade. Situated at the prominent intersection of Terazije and Prizrenska streets, its history spans over 160 years of political shifts, literary gatherings, and architectural transformations.

• 1896 (The Janić Endowment): Purchased by the wealthy Janić merchant family. In 1928, it was left as a charitable endowment to the Serbian Royal Academy, legally dedicating its profits to fund the education of underprivileged children.

• 1935 (The Modern Rebuild): The original 19th-century structure was demolished and entirely rebuilt into the grand multi-story building that stands today, narrowly escaping a 1937 urban plan that sought to level the area for a park.

• Cultural Hub: Throughout the 20th century, its famous ground-floor kafana (tavern) served as a legendary meeting place for Belgrade’s bohemian elite, actors, and literary icons like Branislav Nušić and Miloš Crnjanski.

• Present Day: Following extensive modern renovations, it now operates as a boutique 75-room hotel while preserving its landmark historic facade.

While John dashed back to the Hotel Balkan to grab our scarves for the brisk air, I waited in the grand lobby of the Hotel Moskva.

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 Leaving the square behind, we followed the long, elegant stretch of Kralja Milana Street. The cool air made us grateful for the extra layers as we walked past grand government buildings, old palaces, and the quiet greenery of Pioneer's Park.

 Mural by artist Ibrahim Ljubović

The artwork depicts a glowing hot-air balloon drifting inside a serene, blue interior vault beneath a melting clock face—a clear nod to surrealist meditations on time, space, and perspective.

Monument to Tsar Nicholas II (1868–1918) in Park Aleksandrov (formerly Devojački Park).

.Monument to Borislav Pekić (Spomenik Borislavu Pekiću) sitting on the steps at Cvetni Trg (Flower Square).

Borislav Pekić (1930–1992) was one of the most significant and influential Serbian writers, novelists, screenwriters, and political figures of the 20th century.

Built in 1895 as the Officers' Club (Oficirski dom), designed by architects Jovan Ilkić and Milorad Ruvidić.

Transformed into a student cultural hub and officially opened on April 3, 1971.

The peaceful historic stretch abruptly vanished as we reached Slavija Square (Trg Slavija). This massive, chaotic roundabout is the frantic heart of Belgrade's traffic, and today it felt twice as intense. Orange construction barriers, heavy machinery, and temporary fences blocked off sections of the pavement, forcing us to navigate a maze of makeshift pedestrian pathways. Giant excavators and workers in high-visibility vests stood against the backdrop of swirling city buses, trams, and cars all competing for the right-of-way. 

 We arrived at the breathtaking white marble and granite plateau of the Temple of Saint Sava. We stepped inside the monumental structure to experience the awe-inspiring sight of millions of brilliant gold mosaics covering the entire crypt and dome, completely transforming the massive space into a glowing masterpiece.

It is the fourth largest Eastern Orthodox church in the world and one of the largest churches in the world by gross volume.

Stepping inside, we were instantly mesmerized. Every single square inch of the interior walls and vaulted ceilings was covered in breathtaking religious mosaics:

Millions of glass and stone tiles shimmered under the chandeliers.

Vibrant blues, deep reds, and endless gold leaf brought biblical stories and saints to life.

The central dome featured a massive, awe-inspiring depiction of Christ Pantocrator looking down upon the congregation.

There is always a gift shop!

The short stroll from the Vračar Plateau back down toward the city center brought us straight to the Hilton Belgrade where we made a short bathroom break.

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We took a peak inside McDonald's.

Artist: Danilo Baletić, known for large-scale Transformer-inspired sculptures built from recycled scrap metal and automotive parts.

A wine break beside a heater

 We returned to Centar No. 1 packing our bags and getting fully organized since we had to leave the city tomorrow morning. 

Once everything was packed and ready for our travel day, we freshened up for our final evening out.

 After a long day of exploring, we found ourselves drawn right back to the charm of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s famous bohemian district.

Dinner our first night.

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This wooden sculpture is the "Traveling Actor" (Putujući glumac) carved by sculptor Jovo Petronijević.

Bronze statue of the famous Serbian poet, painter, and writer Đura Jakšić (Đura Jakšić).

 We decided to head to Dva Jelena (Two Deer), which is easily one of the oldest and most legendary traditional kafanas in the city.

Before long, a traditional acoustic tambura band made its way through the dining rooms, playing vibrant Serbian folk music that had the entire crowd tapping their feet and singing along.

The portions are so large that it is expected that you share. This was our favourite meal of the trip so far, roast lamb and two sides, beets and cabbage.

And we're done for the day!