St. John's NL Day 2

 Friday August 21 2026 - St. John's NL

Day 1 LINK

St John’s, Newfoundland, is perched at the very edge of North America.

This is where the sun first rises at the start of each morning. 

This is where Canada begins or ends, depending on your direction. 

Let's start with  a quick lesson on how to pronounce Newfoundland like a local. It is pronounced New-fun-land (where land rhymes with “stand")

Fishing used to be the main industry in  Newfoundland, until a cod fishing moratorium (to preserve fish stocks) in the early 1990’s. Fishing is slowly being reopened and St John’s is one of the major centres for fishing in Canada. Most of the catch is exported to the rest of Canada.

Morning view - a beautiful sunny day in St. John's, however the humidity was to be 100%.

Breakfast - included at hotel. We both had yogurt bowls.

We need to be in the lower exit at 8:30 for pick up. Lunch included. 🚌

Barbara was our guide, a recently retired teacher, and w picked up two couples from Montreal, related, from the Marriott. They really didn't speak English so there wasn't any interaction which made for an awkward lunch.

The last time (2022) we were Cupids and Brigus, John was nursing a sore hip and not up for walking plus it was raining and a hurricane was making its way up the coast! Click here for that day!

Barbara started by telling us that a townie is a term used in Newfoundland and Labrador for someone from St.John's or its surrounding metropolitan area. It contrasts with a bayman, which describes someone from the rural outports and coastal bays outside the capital.

A classic "Townie" greeting from St. John's, Newfoundland, is "Whaddya at?" (What are you at?), usually answered with "Nuttin' b'y" or by throwing the greeting right back.

Essential Townie Greetings
Whaddya at? – What are you up to? How is it going?
How ya gettin' on? – How are things going with you?
Where you bound? – Where are you heading off to?
Who knit ya? – Who are your folks, or where do you belong? 

Typical Responses
Nuttin' b'y, dissisit. – Not a whole lot, this is just how it is.
Best kind, b'y. – Couldn't be better; doing great.
Yes b'y! – I agree completely, or I am amazed

And there's a song for that!

CONCEPTION BAY

Conception Bay is one of Canada's most historic and densely populated marine inlets.It is framed by two long, north-reaching arms of the Avalon Peninsula in southeastern Newfoundland.

Stretching 70 kilometres south from the open Atlantic Ocean down to its headwaters in Holyrood, the bay spans an area of 1,295 square kilometres. It features a diverse coastline of rugged cliffs, sheltered deep-water harbours, and gravel beaches.

First charted in 1527, its name commemorates the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. It was formally recorded by Portuguese explorer Gaspar Côrte-Real.

In 1942, German U-boats launched two direct attacks on Bell Island, Newfoundland, targeting the area's strategic iron ore loading piers in Conception Bay.The September and November attacks sank four Allied merchant ships and killed 70 men, marking rare direct enemy strikes on North American soil during World War II.

She also told us about Robert Decker, the sole survivor of the tragic March 12, 2009 crash of Cougar Flight 491, a Sikorsky S-92 helicopter that ditched into the Atlantic Ocean 55 km southeast of St. John's, N.L, killing 17 of the 18 people on board. 

First stop - HOLYROOD

Holyrood is a scenic town on the Avalon Peninsula in Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada, located along Conception Bay about a 30-minute drive west of St. John's.Home to over 3,100 residents, it is known for its deep fishing roots, annual Squid Fest (JULY), and the Marine Institute's cold-water research facility.

 First charted as "Hollyrode" in 1675, with the name derived from an old English term for Holy Cross.

During World War II, many U.S. military personnel stationed at the nearby Argentia Naval Air Station spent their off-duty free time in Holyrood. They frequently stayed at a local spot called the Beach Cottage and took up hiking George Cove Mountain as a popular pastime to enjoy the panoramic views of Conception Bay. 

 The soldiers learned that the name "Holyrood" came from the ancient Anglo-Saxon words "Holy Rode", which literally translates to "Holy Cross". They thought it would be a fitting, symbolic tribute to erect a physical cross to match the town's historic name.

Two official flags have represented Newfoundland and Labrador since Confederation with Canada in 1949. First the Union Jack, followed by the current provincial flag in 1980. Created by local artist Christopher Pratt, the new flag's design is based on the Union Jack as well as on ancient Beothuk and Innu ornamentation. As a result, it pays tribute to the province's past, while acknowledging its role in shaping our present and future.

The design was chosen due to its broad symbolism. The blue represents the waters of the sea, lakes and rivers; the white represents snow and ice; the red represents human effort, and the yellow gold symbolizes the confidence the people of Newfoundland and Labrador have in themselves and for the future.

March 31 is the highly significant date when Newfoundland officially joined Canada as its tenth province in 1949.The timing and political tension surrounding this moment make it one of the most unique dates in Canadian history:

11:59 PM Timing  - Union with Canada legally took effect at exactly one minute before midnight on March 31, 1949. The pro-Confederation leader, Joey Smallwood, intentionally pushed for this specific timing. He wanted the province to legally join before midnight so that political opponents could not claim the union was an "April Fool's Day joke" if it occurred on April 1st.

John spotted a mural in the distance.

We made a stop at Baynoddy. 

Linda Lewis creates gorgeous Baynoddy knitwear and woven textiles from her sheep. Her husband is part of the Fahey family, which has operated this farm since 1789, which makes it oldest heritage farm in Newfoundland and Labrador. These days, the Fahey Farm’s main crop is fibre.

Avondale is home to the oldest existing railway station in the province built in the 1800s. Today, it’s a museum, but it was closed!!

The rusted hull of the SS Charcot sits aground and partially submerged along the shoreline in Conception Harbour, Newfoundland and Labrador. Built as a whaling ship in Norway in 1923, it drifted ashore during a storm in 1970 and remains a popular, photogenic landmark.

Roadside monument erected by the Iron Workers Local 764—representing the International Association of Bridge, Structural, Ornamental and Reinforcing Iron Workers in Newfoundland and Labrador.

A granite monument featuring a portrait and inscriptions honoring Corporal Jamie Brendan Murphy, who served as a Canadian soldier and fell in Afghanistan. Canada was only there as peacekeepers.

BRIGUS.

Brigus is a picturesque, historic coastal town located on the north-central coast of Conception Bay. Famous for its picture-postcard charm, old saltbox houses, and deep maritime history, it sits along the scenic Baccalieu Coastal Drive. Originally settled in the early 1600s, it evolved into a highly prosperous 19th-century hub for fishing, shipbuilding, and Arctic exploration.

Hawthorne Cottage National Historic Site: This beautifully preserved cottage was the longtime residence of Captain Robert "Bob" Bartlett. He is widely celebrated as one of the 20th century's greatest ice navigators.

The Brigus Tunnel: An 80-foot (30-meter) tunnel blasted out of solid rock in 1860. A Cornish miner hand-carved it using gunpowder so a local captain could easily haul fish to his dock.

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Ye Olde Stone Barn Museum: Also known as the John N. Leamon Museum, this summer-operated venue hosts local artifacts, genealogical records, and details on early town life..

Landfall Cottage: Dating back to 1786, this historic structure served as the studio and residence of famous American artist Rockwell Kent in the early 1900s.

Lobster Lane: A quintessential coastal path perfect for viewing active, colorful Newfoundland fishing boats in the harbour.

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Yet another soldier, among many, lost in a war where we were that as peacekeepers.

CUPIDS

Pulling into Cupids for lunch.

The "American Man" is a historic stone cairn or monolith located at the peak of Spectacle Head in Cupids, Newfoundland and Labrador.For generations, this landmark has stood overlooking Cupids Harbour, traditionally serving as a navigational marker to guide local fishermen safely back to shore.

The name "American Man" comes from an old Newfoundland linguistic tradition where the word "cairn" or "stone marker" morphed over time into the phrase "'Merican Man".When built on high ridges, these stacked rock structures mimic the silhouette of a human standing on the horizon.

Leaving Brigus, Barb asked if we wanted to see the workshop belonging to Rock Solid Builds,  a Canadian home renovation reality television series, which premiered February 18, 2021 on HGTV Canada. The series centres on home renovations in Newfoundland and Labrador, led by Brigus-based contractor Randy Spracklin and his Newfound Builds company. Unlike the format common to most contemporary home renovation series, which typically depict a single complete renovation per episode, Rock Solid Builds features a mix of major "story arc" projects whose ongoing process is depicted across multiple episodes, and smaller "B-story" projects which are given a portion of a single episode.

I said, sure as she seemed excited and mentioned most of her groups know the show and loved to see it. John had never heard of it and the Quebecers were not interested (it is an English show).

As we pulled in, Barb was excited to see that Randy was there and asked him if we could take a photo, he obliged with a big smile.

The highest-rated new show on Canadian specialty cable services in 2021, the series was renewed for a second season, which premiered in January 2022; Spracklin noted that the second season projects were more affected by COVID-related supply chain issues than the first season had been.The show also reportedly led to a noticeable increase in tourism in the Brigus area in 2021.

Barb had already pointed out their family home in Brigus.

We visited the museum.

Cupids is a quiet coastal town of roughly 700 residents on Conception Bay, famous for being the oldest continuously settled official British colony in Canada.

Established in August 1610 by Bristol merchant John Guy and 39 planters, it was originally named Cuper's Cove. It is widely believed to be the birthplace of the first English child born on Canadian soil. Today, it sits along the scenic Baccalieu Coastal Drive, roughly an 80-kilometre drive west of St. John's.

The name Cupids is a modern evolution of its original 1610 English name, Cuper’s Cove.While the exact reason for the original name was never officially recorded, historians and place-name experts point to two primary theories for its origin:

The Barrel-Maker Theory (Coopering)The most widely accepted historical theory is that the name refers to coopering, which is the trade of making wooden barrels and casks."Cuper" was an archaic spelling and variation of the word cooper.

A second theory suggests that the location was named after an early settler or investor."Cuper's Cove" could be a possessive name derived from the English surname Cowper or Cooper.

Eventually, the community dropped "Cove" entirely, leaving the romantic—though entirely accidental—modern name of Cupids.

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Remember this name, Spracklin, we're going to come across it again today.

LUNCH - CUPIDS

McCarthy's Party, lunch is served as a traditional, homemade three-course meal at a scenic stop along the Conception Bay route (such as historic outport communities like Brigus or Cupids), though the exact host venue is kept as a local surprise rather than a fixed public restaurant name.

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Depicting the rescue of the Water Witch.

We started with sweet potato carrot soup, salted fish cakes and a crepe with local berries and ice cream. Delicious coleslaw!

We were treated to the story of the Water Witch by Jackie.

A century and a half ago, the towns of Cupids and Pouch Cove in Newfoundland and Labrador were inextricably linked through the shared experience of the sinking of the schooner Water Witch.

In a terrible storm, the Water Witch was lost in Horrid Gulch, an aptly named and treacherous part of Pouch Cove’s coastline.

The Cupids schooner, owned by Capt. Samuel Spracklin, had fished the Labrador Sea in the summer and returned to Cupids to prepare her catch for sale.

The custom back then for people who owned schooners was to bring their fish to St. John’s to sell it to the merchants. Often the captain and crew would take their family and friends to the city where they would purchase their winter supplies.

This is why the Water Witch, with 25 souls onboard including four women and one young boy, was in St. Johns. They had finished their business and at 4:30 p.m. Monday Nov. 29, 1875 departed to return to Cupids.

By 8 p.m. the Water Witch was off Pouch Cove when they encountered a blinding snowstorm with zero visibility.

The captain thought he was far enough north to round Cape St. Francis, but the schooner ran into the sheer face of a Cliff at Horrid Gulch — a crevice with a ledge of land on one side.

From a survivor story “the schooner hit the rocks and at least eight men jumped on the rocks at the bottom of the cliff and four others jumped on the ledge on the other side of the crevice. The schooner was smashed up and they heard no noises from the others. The captain and three other men were on the ledge and could talk with those on the rocks and it was decided that the captain and two other men should attempt to scale the 200 metre cliff and seek help.”

About 11 p.m. the captain and the two men, wet and exhausted, came to the house of Eli Langmead who immediately had his wife care for the three men and he organized a party of men, who, laden with ropes, arrived at the top of Horrid Gulch by 1 a.m.

They could hear the calling and screaming of the people 600 feet on the rocks below and they devised a rescue plan. They had two coils of rope, each about 95 fathoms long which they tied to a tree and ran down over the Cliff.

They tied men evenly spaced apart to about 100 feet from the water’s edge. It was still about 100 feet of insurmountable bare cliff to reach the survivors.

Alfred Moores volunteered to be swung over the edge of the cliff and pass the rope down to those clinging to the rocks. They swung him three times before he got the rope to the survivors who tied themselves to the ropes and by daylight all were pulled safely to the top of cliff.

Friday morning, Dec. 3, 11 bodies that had been recovered (one was never recovered), and 13 survivors were on the steamer Cabot leaving St. John’s for Cupids.

At 4:30 p.m. the steamer arrived at the wharf in Cupids where the whole community was waiting to help bring the survivors and the deceased to their respective homes. Horses were waiting to carry the coffins that were neatly lined up on the deck of the Cabot. The community was saddened and in shock.

The interment service took place in the newly constructed Methodist Church which was to open in a few weeks. They opened the new church for the funeral and the first service held was for the burial of the Water Witch victims.

About 2,000 people attended but less than half could get into the church so the minister preached from the open doorway. Nice bodies were buried in a mass grave 15 yards behind the church, two bodies were buried elsewhere, and still one was never recovered.

Onboard the Water Witch had been 14 immediate family members of the Spracklin family. The sad event was life-changing for many families.

Since that night, a shared history has developed between Cupids and Pouch Cove. A bond that exists to this very day was created between the two communities which will commemorate the 150th anniversary this year with special events and telling stories of the heroic rescue in Pouch Cove and the consequences of the greatest tragedy to ever befall the historic community of Cupids.

CLARKE'S BEACH

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Distillery

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Sampler with mixes - tonic, ginger beer and ginger ale.

We made a unplanned stop in Port de Grave is a historic scenic peninsula and active fishing community located on Conception Bay. It sits about an hour's drive west of St. John's and includes small local settlements like Bareneed, Ship Cove, and Hibb's Cove.

One of the oldest permanent European migrant fishing settlements in Newfoundland, visited by Portuguese and English explorers over 500 years ago.Active Fishery: Remains one of the busiest and most innovative commercial fishing ports in the province, handling catches like crab and lobster.

One of the most notable and expensive high-value local boats tied to Port de Grave is the Petten's Legacy, a massive 400-tonne, 27-meter multi-species fishing vessel owned by the Petten family.Pandemic delays, market changes, and shipyard financial trouble drove the final cost of this steel-hulled ship to over $10 million.

We also had another unplanned stop at The Green Point Lighthouse is a historic 20.7-foot red-and-white cast-iron tower built in 1883 at the tip of the Port de Grave Peninsula.

The waters and rugged coastlines around St. John's and nearby areas like Port de Grave (home to the Green Point Lighthouse) are extremely dangerous, characterized by fierce Atlantic waves, freezing temperatures, sheer drop-offs, and unpredictable weather.

BAY ROBERTS

The Cable Building National Historic Site: This iconic provincial heritage structure houses the Bay Roberts Town Hall, the Road to Yesterday Museum, and the Christopher Pratt Gallery. During World War II, it served as a critical Western Union telegraph relay station facilitating secret communications between Winston Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt.

BACK IN ST. JOHN'S

We arrived back around 4:30 and had a nap before we headed out planning on a light dinner.We walked down Duckworth street to Adelaide and then down to Georges St. It was extremely humid out, at 99%.

Another popular unofficial flag is the Pink, White, and Green (PWG), or Newfoundland tricolour. It is most widespread on the island portion of the province, especially in the St. John's area, and is today a symbol of Newfoundland nationalism – a badge of pride and identity. First flown in the late 1800s, the flag largely disappeared from public use after the First World War, displaced by the rising popularity of the Union Jack.

During the flag debates of the 1970s, however, it resurfaced as an alternate design. At the same time, the province was experiencing a cultural revival, led by local artists and intellectuals, which explored and promoted Newfoundland and Labrador's distinctive customs and heritage. The PWG quickly grew in popularity, becoming a symbol of everything admirable and distinct in the province's past, and of all it stands to accomplish in the future.

From late June to early September, Water Street from Adelaide Street to Prescott Street is pedestrianised from noon to midnight (no vehicles). This makes for a wonderful walking experience.

We walked by some murals we had taken in 2022.

We ate here the last time.

For dinner we settled on tapas at One Eared Goat.