Monday, June 30, 2025

Eagle Plains - Inuvik NWT

 August 24


EAGLE PLAINS - INUVIK

Italics - tour description. Strikeouts indicate it never happened!
Departing Eagle Plains, our first stop is at the Arctic Circle crossing, where we’ll enjoy a celebratory glass of champagne to commemorate this special occasion. After crossing a mountain range and two rivers (the Richardson’s and the Mackenzie and Peel Rivers), we’ll visit the First Nations community of Fort MacPherson. The famed Lost Patrol, found after they perished by RNWMP Corporal Dempster - for whom the highway is named - is laid to rest here. A former Hudson Bay trading post, some native elders still wander the village in Hudson Bay print dresses. Inuvik is a relatively young community with an ancient history. The Canadian government commissioned the building of the town in the 1950’s when it became apparent that the nearby traditional village of Aklavik, was slowly sinking into the delta. Inuvialuit people (Inuit, once referred to pejoratively as Eskimos) were also moved down from various points on the Arctic coast. Appropriately, the name Inuvik means Place of Man in the Inuvialuit language. We’ll take a short tour of the village on the way to hotel and you’ll have time to explore the town on foot in the evening. Accommodation: Inuvik







Thursday was sunny as we had breakfast, not "included" as Leo said. It is provided at a price, $20 for a fried egg and toast, bacon an extra $5!

We piled into the rusty tin can once again for a long day of driving.



Please note the clean white van.

BTW you keep meeting the same people. The car that is parked belonged to a man who was getting coffee in Dawson City the other morning with John. We would also meet them at the Arctic Circle sign and later in Inuvik.


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View from Eagle Plains parking lot.



The Arctic Circle is a parallel or line of latitude at approximately 66°33’ N that marks the border of the Arctic, the northernmost region of Earth. The geographic point at the centre of Arctic Circle is the North Pole.
It covers 40% of Canada’s territory and is home to more than 200,000 inhabitants, more than half of whom are Indigenous.

We celebrated with champagne and our certificates.


Gorgeous colours!


We were at the Artic Circle at 9:50 AM and got into the NWT (Northwest Territories) at 11:06 and the fog starts.



I am very grateful that Leo is a good driver.


Arctic Ocean 475 KM.



Remember the clean van? This is the back window now.


RAP Report a poacher!


We have two ferries today.


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Groceries are expensive this far north! Once again, we are picking up breakfast/lunch supplies.
A 4 pack of yogurt is $15!



In the shadow of St. Matthew’s Anglican Church in Fort McPherson lies the final resting place of the infamous Lost Patrol. 
It began on a lonely trail straddling the Yukon and Northwest Territories over a century ago. Inspector Francis Fitzgerald and his three constables departed on an 800-kilometre dogsled journey from Fort McPherson to Dawson City. They never arrived.

Their corpses were found by search parties that spring — as were their diaries, which told a ghastly tale of desperate meandering as the patrol became lost and their food ran out. Fitzgerald and his men eventually tried to retreat to the Northwest Territories, but their hunger won out. They died just 40 kilometres shy of Fort McPherson.



Another long 8 hour day, we get to the MacKenzie Hotel in Inuvik. Looks very nice, but the elevator doesn't work. 


And worse, dinner is only served until 7 and it is only take-out. Are we annoyed? Yes. Do they have a liquor license, no. We order dinner, the server says the liquor store is down the street so John takes A's request and heads out after dinner.


We understood that Leo said 9:30 departure time in the morning, as did the others, however, they tell us he changed it to 8:30. Someone calls him and he says he always said 8:30, whatever...




Monday Mural

  I'm linking up at Monday Mural 

June 2025 - Reykjavik Iceland

Laugavegur 66. Wall Poetry series. D*FACE and Agent Fresco inspired by Laxdæla Saga.

This piece is paired with the song "Wait for Me" by Agent Fresco and is inspired by the Icelandic saga, Laxdæla. At the bottom of the mural is a quote from Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir, the main female character in Laxdæla Saga. Caught in a love triangle in her youth, she was asked in her older years who she loved the most. She answered: „Þeim var ég verst er ég unni mest,“ which has been translated as “To him I was worst whom I loved the most.” Who doesn‘t love drama?!


Back of the building at Hverfisgata 4-6. Li Hill with John Grant, inspired by the song “Pale Green Ghosts” by John Grant. The details of the dancer's face and throat as she turns, so elegant, are so strange, floating above the neighbouring dwelling houses and office buildings.

Li Hill is a Canadian/American visual artist based in Brooklyn.

The entrance to the Prime Minister's Office is here.


This is beside it.

Artwork at the side of the building on Laugavegur 70 depicts gyrfalcon, the national bird of Iceland. Gyrfalcons have the unique ability to change characteristics; they have many colours and varieties in their species. It’s interesting that gyrfalcons don’t build their own nests, they nest inside cliffs and rocky holes. Sometimes, they lay eggs in another bird’s nest.



Three nicely looking birds with no eyes on Frakkastigur. Couldn’t find their story.


I was surprised that this was included in articles about street art, we had walked by it a few times without taking a photo.

Artist: Arnór Kári
Address: Bankastræti 14




Saturday, June 28, 2025

This and That

 


The hubris and tone deafness of @GovJanetMills  of Maine to tell Maritimers that they are hurting the people of her State by not visiting. It was YOUR President that mused about annexing our country. It was YOUR President that imposed unjustified tariffs. This is on YOU.


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Watch the Queen of the Netherlands mock tRump! I don't really care if it is true or not, it is amusing.


Another, I don't care if it is true, I love it!!


Te & Kaffi

 Linking up with Marg at The Intrepid Reader

June 2025 - Reykjavik Iceland - Toronto

                                                                   Reykjavik Iceland



Last week's summary included our Thursday flight and Friday's Food Walk is included in Day 1 link above. However here is a collage of what we ate! 
Drinks are not included in the price. The tour was €121 per person. Considering, for example the donut is $20 CAD, it wasn't bad. The guide was fun and we wouldn't have tried all these places on our own. It also gave us our bearings around town.


SATURDAY
   ≈14,000 steps

After a very European breakfast, cold cuts, cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, yogurt, pastries and the worst coffee ever, and it didn't improve.
We geared up for our whale watching tour at 9 AM. 

John with our reusable water bottles with water straight from the tap, how amazing is that!


Coffee stop after that deplorable hotel coffee.




All Aboard!


Told you we were bundled up! 


We did get glimpses of whales and spotted a number of blowholes.
On Thursday I received the photos that the tour had taken on our trip.








We laughed when John was searching for a location and it knew we were in the North Atlantic Ocean and "can't seem to find a way there"!!


It was raining when we got back and it continued all day long.


We spent the rainy, chilly afternoon wandering and it is covered in the Day 2 post.

We even visited the Penis Museum!


The collection begins when our founder and original curator, Sigurður Hjartarson, is given a bull penis pizzle as joke by his teaching staff when he worked as a headmaster in the small town of Akranes. Giving him a phallus, became an ongoing joke and as some of the teachers had summer jobs at a whaling station, Sigurður got some interesting specimens, and an interest in collecting more mammal species developed.









American artist Cynthia Albritton (1947- 2022) from Chicago, Illinois, is best known for making plaster casts of rockstar phalluses. Her ingenious use of the substance alginate made for a solid cast which would later soften and safely exit the mould. Her phallological contribution to popular culture is invaluable and her work has inspired artists across various fields.
One of her first casts was Jimi Hendrix, but after moving to Los Angeles, by patronage of Frank Zappa (1940-1993), she was able to make many more. Her first exhibition was in 2000, in New York. In 2022 she donated, the Jimi "Display Model", from the series 'Dice' to the museum. Donation was facilitated by friends John Culver, Kathy Tynus, Chris Kellner and Babette Novak.


Jimi met Cynthia Albritton in 1968. She had intended to make a cast of his bass player, Noel Redding (1945-2003), but his erection failed him and then Jimi stepped in to fill his shoes. The result was what may be the most famous penis cast in history.

Some more wandering.





Heading out to our dinner splurge, we stopped into a convenience store.


he oldest bookstore in Reykjavik, Iceland, is Eymundsson, established in 1872. It was founded by Sigfús Eymundsson, who was a photographer and bookbinder. Initially named "Bókaverslun Sigfúsar Eymundsson", it has remained at the same location on Austurstræti, though the building was rebuilt in 1960. Eymundsson is known for its extensive collection of Icelandic and foreign literature, stationery, and gifts, and often hosts literary events.


What an incredible meal at The Fish Company.


How cute is this!! The bill was presented in a change purse.


This photo was taken at 10 PM. For 3 hours of twilight, the sun sits just below the horizon and delivers lingering natural light.



≈17,000 steps

This was supposed to be our Golden Circle tour day but I didn't feel great and we both went back to bed and slept until 12:30!!! We are good at pivoting and by the end of the day had developed another plan that allowed us to do everything we wanted.

We went for crepes (gluten free!) and coffee $68 CAD. Then we spent the day strolling around town.
We went to the church.

Lundi is the Icelandic word for puffin, making the name as short and easy to remember as the lovable creature it refers to. Although they aren’t the national animal of Iceland, you might get the impression that they are, especially when walking along the shopping streets in Reykjavík. This cute little bird is the superstar of all the local gift shops! When you want a puffin shop, “Lundinn” is the name to look for!




Coffee shop - hygge means quality of coziness and comfortable conviviality that engenders a feeling of contentment or well-being (regarded as a defining characteristic of Danish culture).

The Kingdom of Iceland (Icelandic: Konungsríkið Ísland; Danish: Kongeriget Island) was a sovereign and independent country under a constitutional and hereditary monarchy that was established by the Act of Union with Denmark signed on 1 December 1918. It lasted until 17 June 1944 when a national referendum established the republic of Iceland in its place.


Typical snack food.



We wandered down to the harbour.



Refilling our water bottles. You can drink directly from public water fountains and taps, as the tap water is exceptionally clean and safe to drink. Locals often refer to it as "kranavatn," and it's considered a premium quality, environmentally friendly option. Many tourists are encouraged to bring reusable bottles and fill them up at these fountains, reducing plastic waste.
Icelandic tap water is known for its purity as the water undergoes natural filtration through lava rock, resulting in a clean and safe source.



Waiting for my hot dog.

Across the street.
Pósthustræti 2 — one of the relatively few buildings in Reykjavík that has simply stood, more or less unaltered, since 1919. The building was designed by Iceland’s State Architect Guðjón Samúelsson, who managed during his 30 year tenure to build the bulk of Reykjavík’s most prominent buildings, including Hallgrímskirkja, the main building of the University of Iceland, Hotel Borg, The Iceland Art Museum, The National Museum, the old Hospital building and the first indoor swimming pool in Reykjavík, to name a few.

It was originally built as the offices of Iceland’s first shipping company Eimskip, founded in 1914. It became a hotel in 2004, but until then the front of the building featured Eimskip’s original logo; a swastika. Because the building was on the list of historical sites in Iceland, the symbol could not be destroyed, so it was simply covered up when Radisson SAS renovated the building into a hotel. The shipping company stopped using the building during World War 2, but why the swastika was displayed until 2004, we have no clue.
Eimskip adopted the logo some years earlier than an at-the-time obscure political party in Weimar era Germany. Prior to the Nazi’s adopting it, the symbol was used for various purposes by various parties all over the world, from an Irish laundry company to the Finnish Air Force. Nobody cared who used it first, because it was stigmatized beyond repair — making the fact that the symbol remained for so long even less comprehensible.




Back to prices, here is a typical breakfast menu.


John is blown away by a single egg costing $7. But then 2 eggs plus bacon and bagel is $32.







Chips (dedicated GF fryer) for dinner and Gull makes gluten free beer.


≈21,000 steps



We went to the puffin tour office at the harbour and they were very obliging and moved our puffin tour until tomorrow which meant we could do the Golden Circle tour at 12:30 from the bus terminal. We grabbed pizza slices.

It cost John 200 kr to go to the bathroom, credit card accepted, no cash.


The Golden Circle bus tour takes you on a day trip to see the world-famous Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss, the queen of Icelandic waterfalls, as well as Thingvellir National Park.

Geysir Geothermal Park
The Geysir geothermal area boasts spouting springs, including Strokkur, the most active geyser in Iceland. 



If you don't want to be drenched stay up-wind.



Gullfoss Waterfall
At Gullfoss you are given the opportunity to stand next to the amazing waterfall, watching enormous quantities of water tumble violently into a deep, meandering gorge.







Thingvellir National Park
Whether you take the morning or the afternoon tour, you will spend your time encountering a cross-section of Iceland's natural wonders and geological phenomena at Thingvellir National Park, an area of historical and geological significance. 
This was a real favourite of ours.






Bonus was getting dropped off in town by the church saving us a taxi from the bus terminal.

We went for a beer at the Viking bar.


Dinner $108 CAD for 2 beer and 4 tacos! Lamb and cod.









≈10000 steps

We dressed for the puffin tour at 10 AM and left our luggage at the hotel after checking out.



From there we grabbed an early lunch of fish and chips.


Then dessert at Hresso.


We headed back to the hotel, changed and headed to the airport for our 5 PM flight.

And just like that we're home!


And a new dot on the map!


Wednesday and we didn't have any jetlag. John headed out to his weekly golf game. I went to Longo's for some groceries. Then I worked on my blog and sorted photos. I took John's videos and converted them to MP4s.
The annual fire inspection was done while we were away.
The underground garage power wash was also done while we were away.

Thursday we had a lazy day at home. We started the certified exit to get rid of our timeshare. We'll see how that goes as we have no plans to go to the States and the maintenance fee payments are in US $ so we do not want to contribute to the US economy.
I finished my daily Iceland recaps. I received the photos from the whale watching tour, their photos were not much better than ours.

Friday I did some laundry (John needed his hat for golf)! I went to Longo's for weekend vegetables and ice cream as we want to make date shakes on the weekend!
I made some small batch mini cheesecakes, lime, this time.

EATING/COOKING

Saturday Reykjavik
Sunday Reykjavik
Monday Reykavik
Tuesday Transit
Wednesday cheeseburgers and potato chips
Thursday lamb Shepherd's pie using Jamie's recipe from his Comfort Food cookbook
Friday steak, sauteed mushrooms, green peppers, onions and a (shared) baked potato

WATCHING

We both watched Just Mercy on the plane coming home. World-renowned civil rights defense attorney Bryan Stevenson works to free a wrongly condemned death row prisoner.

To Catch a Killer An intuitive but troubled police officer is recruited by an FBI expert to stop a relentless shooter who is terrorizing Baltimore.

Cleaner is a 2025 British action thriller film starring Daisy Ridley, Taz Skylar and Clive Owen.
Criminal activists hijack a gala, taking 300 hostages. One extremist plans mass murder as a message to the world. An Ex-soldier turned window cleaner now works to rescue the hostages. 

5lb of Pressure  Trying to start over, Adam searches for redemption as he returns to his old neighborhood to put to rest his demons while the brother of the man he killed seeks revenge.


READING


The Quaker Liam McIlvanney is a new author to me whom I am really enjoying. Loosely based on the ‘Bible John’ serial killer that plagued Glasgow in the late 1960’s.